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揭秘羽绒服行业乱象:低价产品可能含鸡毛猪毛 直播带货成重灾区 Uncovering the Chaos in the Down Jacket Industry: Low-Price Products May Contain Chic

揭秘羽绒服行业乱象:低价产品可能含鸡毛猪毛 直播带货成重灾区

揭秘羽绒服行业乱象:低价产品可能含鸡毛猪毛 直播带货成重灾区

Uncovering the Chaos in the Down Jacket Industry: Low-Price Products May Contain Chicken Feathers and Pig Hair, Live Streaming Becomes a Hotbed

界面新闻记者 | 朱咏玲
Interface News Reporter | Zhu Yongling

羽绒服在每年冬天总能成为热门话题。除了消费者一直以来关注的羽绒服价格波动外,今年羽绒服行业乱象也进入公众视野。
Down jackets always become a hot topic every winter. In addition to the price fluctuations that consumers have always been concerned about, the chaos in the down jacket industry has also entered the public eye this year.

央视曝光"假羽绒"产业链
CCTV Exposes "Fake Down" Industry Chain

据央视财经报道,如今市场上存在部分不达标的"假羽绒制品",这些伪劣产品为压低成本,用"飞丝"冒充"羽绒",并能提供一套假冒的合格证、水洗标、羽绒充气标、吊牌等质检手续。
According to CCTV Finance reports, there are currently some substandard "fake down products" on the market. These inferior products use "fly silk" to impersonate "down" in order to reduce costs, and can provide a set of fake certificates, washing labels, down inflation labels, tags and other quality inspection procedures.

这些劣质产品通过线上和线下渠道流向消费者手中,有的童装羽绒服已售出数万件,羽绒被还会流向酒店、民宿等。
These inferior products flow into consumers' hands through online and offline channels. Some children's down jackets have sold tens of thousands of pieces, and down quilts will also flow to hotels and homestays.

什么是真正的羽绒?
What is Real Down?

"飞丝"即"绒丝",是指从蒲公英状的朵绒等绒子上掉下的单根短丝;而朵绒、未成熟绒等则属于"绒子",比绒丝更蓬松,也是令羽绒服保暖的关键。
"Fly silk" refers to single short filaments that fall from dandelion-like clusters of down. The clusters and immature down belong to "down clusters", which are more fluffy than down filaments and are the key to keeping down jackets warm.

2022年生效的《羽绒服装》新国标(GB/T 14272-2021)较老国标的一大变化,就是对羽绒服填充物的要求从"含绒量(指绒子和绒丝在羽毛羽绒中的质量百分比)"变为"绒子含量(指绒子所占的质量百分比)",因为后者能更直观地反映羽绒的品质。一件羽绒服的绒子含量不低于50%才算达标。
A major change in the new national standard for down clothing (GB/T 14272-2021), which came into effect in 2022, is that the requirement for down jacket fillings has changed from "down content" (referring to the mass percentage of down clusters and filaments in feather down) to "down cluster content" (referring to the mass percentage of down clusters), because the latter can more intuitively reflect the quality of down. A down jacket must have a down cluster content of no less than 50% to meet the standard.

行业乱象:鸡毛、猪毛冒充羽绒
Industry Chaos: Chicken Feathers and Pig Hair Impersonating Down

为多家知名羽绒服及家纺品牌代工的羽绒工厂经理告诉界面新闻,以丝充绒等乱象在羽绒市场里不是新鲜事。
A manager of a down factory that OEMs for many well-known down jacket and home textile brands told Interface News that using silk to fill down is not a new phenomenon in the down market.

据其介绍,以丝充绒中的"丝"甚至可能并不全是鸭绒丝或鹅绒丝,"也有鸡毛丝、猪毛须、兔毛、羊毛"。而这些实际上都不能算是羽绒产品,根据《羽绒羽毛》国标(GB/T 17685-2016),羽毛绒是指生长在水禽动物身上的羽毛和羽绒。
According to the introduction, the "silk" used to fill down may not even be all duck down filaments or goose down filaments, "there are also chicken feather filaments, pig hair whiskers, rabbit hair, and wool". These actually cannot be considered down products. According to the national standard for down and feathers (GB/T 17685-2016), feather down refers to feathers and down that grow on waterfowl.

低价背后的暴利
Huge Profits Behind Low Prices

商家以丝充绒其的原因无外乎是其成本低廉。此类飞丝的价格低至十几元/公斤,所制成的羽绒产品却可以卖到上百元,其中的利润空间其实并不小。
The reason why merchants use silk to fill down is nothing more than its low cost. The price of such fly silk is as low as more than ten yuan per kilogram, but the down products made from it can be sold for hundreds of yuan, and the profit margin is actually not small.

羽绒原料在羽绒服成本中占大头。前述经理介绍,考虑到不同产品的工艺、设计等各方面成本的差异,一件羽绒服的出厂成本中,羽绒原料的占比大约在30%到70%之间。
Down raw materials account for the majority of the cost of down jackets. The aforementioned manager introduced that considering the differences in processes, designs and other costs of different products, the proportion of down raw materials in the factory cost of a down jacket is about 30% to 70%.

电商平台成重灾区
E-commerce Platforms Become a Hotbed

从电商平台的搜索结果来看,低价、白牌(即中小商家生产的不知名品牌)是伪劣羽绒产品的重灾区,不少产品从价格和语焉不详的商品介绍中就能看出端倪。
From the search results of e-commerce platforms, low prices and white labels (that is, unknown brands produced by small and medium-sized merchants) are the hardest hit areas for counterfeit down products. Many products can be seen from the price and vague product descriptions.

直播电商也是类似。一些白牌羽绒服的带货话术重点强调产品的防风保暖设计、"所见即所得"、"现货即发"等,但对填充物的介绍模棱两可,大多只讲到填充物是鸭绒或鹅绒,而对绒子含量、充绒量等关键参数避而不谈。
Live streaming e-commerce is also similar. Some white-label down jackets focus on emphasizing the product's windproof and warm design, "what you see is what you get", "in stock and ready to ship", etc., but the introduction of the filling is ambiguous. Most of them only mention that the filling is duck down or goose down, and avoid talking about key parameters such as down cluster content and down filling amount.

消费提示
Consumption Tips

中国羽绒工业协会在近日发布的《羽绒制品消费提示》中提到,诸如此类长期利用"清仓"、"孤品"、"瑕疵"、"尾单"等噱头进行甩卖,甚至通过主播发誓等夸张方式销售的羽绒产品,假冒现象高发。
The China Feather and Down Industrial Association mentioned in the recently released "Down Product Consumption Tips" that down products that have long been sold off with gimmicks such as "clearance", "unique products", "defects", and "remaining orders", and even sold through exaggerated methods such as anchors swearing, have a high incidence of counterfeiting.

揭秘羽绒服行业乱象:低价产品可能含鸡毛猪毛 直播带货成重灾区