云南古树茶十年价涨近千倍：老班章村茶农暴富背后的行业乱象
【核心提示】云南省勐海县布朗山乡老班章村因普洱茶致富，古树茶价格从2002年的6元/公斤飙升至如今的6000-80000元/公斤。这个只有127户人家的"茶王村"年产值近2亿元，却也面临着诚信缺失、过度采摘、市场乱象等问题。
从贫困村到"茶王村"的蜕变
Located 30 kilometers outside Menghai County, Yunnan, Laobanzhang Village in Bulang Mountain Township is considered one of the wealthiest mountain villages in China. The village's transformation from poverty to prosperity is nothing short of remarkable.
2002年，老班章毛茶每公斤仅6元；2004年涨至40元；2007年普洱茶炒作崩盘前，价格已飙升至1200元。2010年后，随着古树茶概念兴起，价格继续攀升。2023年，老班章毛茶达5000元/公斤，古树茶毛茶6000-8000元/公斤。
In 2002, Laobanzhang raw tea was only 6 yuan/kg; by 2004 it rose to 40 yuan; before the 2007 Pu'er tea speculation crash, prices had soared to 1,200 yuan. After 2010, with the rise of the ancient tea tree concept, prices continued to climb. In 2023, Laobanzhang raw tea reached 5,000 yuan/kg, while ancient tree tea raw material was 6,000-8,000 yuan/kg.
暴富后的生活与隐忧
With an annual output value of nearly 200 million yuan from tea, the 127 households in the village each earn an average annual income of over 1 million yuan from tea picking. The villagers have gone from living in thatched huts to owning villas and luxury cars.
为保护品牌，村民在周边路口设卡，禁止外来茶叶进村。但知情人士透露，山区小路众多，设卡主要起威慑作用。暴富后的村民生活奢靡，喜欢喝酒、唱KTV和赌博。由于文化程度普遍较低，甚至有家长让考上大学的孩子辍学回家，认为"只要有茶叶就能赚钱"。
To protect their brand, villagers set up checkpoints to prevent outside tea from entering. However, insiders reveal the mountainous area has many paths, making the checkpoints mainly deterrent. After becoming wealthy, villagers indulge in drinking, karaoke and gambling. With generally low education levels, some parents even have their college-enrolled children drop out, believing "tea alone can make money."
行业乱象：调包、拼配与诚信危机
The tea industry faces serious integrity issues. Driven by huge profits, some merchants and farmers mix different grades of tea or even substitute cheaper varieties while claiming they're premium ancient tree tea.
业内人士透露，云南古茶树年产量仅2000多吨，占全省普洱茶产量不到2%。市场上大量所谓"老班章"实为拼配茶。有茶商分享经历：曾亲眼目睹茶农调包，现在必须24小时盯采，甚至专门雇不懂汉语的缅甸人采茶以防串通。
Industry insiders reveal Yunnan's ancient tea tree output is just over 2,000 tons annually, less than 2% of the province's total Pu'er production. Much "Laobanzhang" tea on the market is actually blended. One merchant shared how they now supervise picking 24/7, even hiring non-Chinese speaking Myanmar workers to prevent collusion.
古茶树保护困境
From 1988-1990, Menghai County ordered tea trees to be pruned to increase yield, resulting in many ancient trees dying. Currently, the county has 48,000 mu (about 3,200 hectares) of ancient tea trees, but protection efforts face challenges.
为增加产量，部分茶农给古茶树松土，导致品质下降甚至茶树死亡。从3月到10月不间断采摘也对古茶树造成极大伤害。老班章原村主任三爬坦言："春茶能采100万元，雨水茶50万元，如果不采，全村损失5000万元，这个损失谁来承担？"
To increase yield, some farmers loosen soil around ancient trees, reducing quality or killing trees. Continuous picking from March to October also severely damages trees. Former village director Sanpa admitted: "Spring tea brings 1 million yuan, rainy season tea 500,000 yuan. If we don't pick, the village loses 50 million yuan. Who will bear this loss?"
专家观点：理性看待古树茶
Zhou Hongjie from Yunnan Agricultural University stated there's no need to blindly pursue "mountain tea." While ancient trees have better taste due to deeper roots absorbing more nutrients, their chemical composition differs little from terrace tea.
勐海县副县长何青元表示，政府正在着力打造名山名茶品牌，但今年高端古树茶价格已回落20-30%，是市场回归理性的表现。多位茶商坦言："其实茶就是一种饮品而已。"古树茶热背后，更多是心理需求而非实际价值。
Menghai Deputy County Chief He Qingyuan said the government is promoting famous mountain teas, but prices for premium ancient tree tea have fallen 20-30% this year, showing market rationality. Many merchants admit: "Tea is just a beverage." The ancient tea craze reflects psychological rather than actual value.
