揭秘羽绒服行业乱象:低价产品可能使用鸡毛猪毛填充
界面新闻记者 | 朱咏玲 界面新闻编辑 | 许悦
羽绒服在每年冬天总能成为热门话题。除了消费者一直以来关注的羽绒服价格波动外,今年羽绒服行业乱象也进入公众视野。
Down jackets always become a hot topic every winter. In addition to the price fluctuations that consumers have always been concerned about, this year the irregularities in the down jacket industry have also come into public view.
据央视财经报道,如今市场上存在部分不达标的"假羽绒制品",这些伪劣产品为压低成本,用"飞丝"冒充"羽绒",并能提供一套假冒的合格证、水洗标、羽绒充气标、吊牌等质检手续。
According to CCTV Finance reports, there are currently some substandard "fake down products" on the market. These inferior products use "fly silk" to impersonate "down" in order to reduce costs, and can provide a set of fake quality inspection documents including certificates, washing labels, down inflation labels, and hangtags.
"飞丝"即"绒丝",是指从蒲公英状的朵绒等绒子上掉下的单根短丝;而朵绒、未成熟绒等则属于"绒子",比绒丝更蓬松,也是令羽绒服保暖的关键。
"Fly silk" is "down silk", referring to single short filaments that fall from dandelion-like down clusters; while down clusters and immature down belong to "down clusters", which are more fluffy than down silk and are the key to keeping down jackets warm.
2022年生效的《羽绒服装》新国标(GB/T 14272-2021)较老国标的一大变化,就是对羽绒服填充物的要求从"含绒量"变为"绒子含量",因为后者能更直观地反映羽绒的品质。一件羽绒服的绒子含量不低于50%才算达标。
A major change in the new national standard for down clothing (GB/T 14272-2021) that took effect in 2022 compared to the old standard is that the requirement for down jacket fillings changed from "down content" to "down cluster content", because the latter can more intuitively reflect the quality of down. A down jacket must have a down cluster content of no less than 50% to meet the standard.
多家知名羽绒服及家纺品牌代工的羽绒工厂经理告诉界面新闻,以丝充绒等乱象在羽绒市场里不是新鲜事。央视财经曝光的伪劣羽绒产品来自江苏南通某家纺市场和江西九江某羽绒园区。
A down factory manager who manufactures for many well-known down jacket and home textile brands told Jiemian News that using silk to fill down is not a new phenomenon in the down market. The inferior down products exposed by CCTV Finance came from a home textile market in Nantong, Jiangsu and a down industrial park in Jiujiang, Jiangxi.
该经理称,在浙江平湖这样的全国最大羽绒服生产基地中,此类情况也不鲜见。据其介绍,以丝充绒中的"丝"甚至可能并不全是鸭绒丝或鹅绒丝,"也有鸡毛丝、猪毛须、兔毛、羊毛"。
The manager said that in Pinghu, Zhejiang, the largest down jacket production base in China, such situations are not uncommon. According to him, the "silk" used to fill down may not even be all duck down silk or goose down silk, "there is also chicken feather silk, pig hair, rabbit hair, and wool".
羽绒原料在羽绒服成本中占大头。前述经理介绍,考虑到不同产品的工艺、设计等各方面成本的差异,一件羽绒服的出厂成本中,羽绒原料的占比大约在30%到70%之间。
Down raw materials account for the majority of down jacket costs. The aforementioned manager explained that considering the differences in processes, designs and other costs of different products, down raw materials account for about 30% to 70% of the factory cost of a down jacket.
根据中国羽绒工业协会公布的2024年羽绒原料的价格水平,羽绒服装标准90%白鸭绒(即含绒量90%)的价格约为420元-550元/公斤,羽绒寝具标准95%白鹅绒价格约为1000元-1400元/公斤。
According to the price level of down raw materials in 2024 announced by the China Feather and Down Industrial Association, the price of 90% white duck down (i.e. 90% down content) for down clothing standards is about 420-550 yuan/kg, while the price of 95% white goose down for down bedding standards is about 1000-1400 yuan/kg.
电商平台上的低价羽绒服伪劣的羽绒产品大概率流向了消费力较低,以及对产品质量辨识力不足的消费者。界面新闻记者在第三方电商数据平台抖查查上随机查看了几款定价100元内羽绒服和400元以下羽绒被的商品观众画像,超九成消费者位于新一线及以下城市。
Inferior down products at low prices on e-commerce platforms are most likely flowing to consumers with lower purchasing power and insufficient ability to identify product quality. Jiemian News reporters randomly viewed the audience profiles of several down jackets priced below 100 yuan and down quilts priced below 400 yuan on the third-party e-commerce data platform Douchacha, and found that over 90% of consumers were located in new first-tier cities and below.
中国羽绒工业协会提示:消费者应警惕长期利用"清仓"、"孤品"、"瑕疵"、"尾单"等噱头进行甩卖,甚至通过主播发誓等夸张方式销售的羽绒产品,假冒现象高发。
The China Feather and Down Industrial Association warns: Consumers should be wary of down products that are sold for a long time using gimmicks such as "clearance", "unique items", "defective products", and "remaining stock", or even sold through exaggerated methods such as anchors swearing, as counterfeit phenomena are highly prevalent.
