消失的中国味:福州茉莉花茶的兴衰史
记忆中的芬芳 | The Fragrance of Memory
小时候经常偷偷泡爸爸的茉莉花茶,那几块钱一大包的香气至今难忘。但随着时间流逝,这种曾经风靡全国的饮品逐渐从便利店和家庭茶桌上消失。
As a child, I often secretly brewed my father's jasmine tea. The fragrance of that large, affordable tea bag remains unforgettable. But over time, this once nationally popular beverage gradually disappeared from convenience stores and family tea tables.
福州茉莉花的黄金时代 | The Golden Age of Fuzhou Jasmine
从清朝到20世纪90年代中期,福州茉莉花茶享誉全球。当时福州拥有10万亩茉莉花基地和1000多家相关企业,年产量达8万吨,占全国60%以上,远销40多个国家。
From the Qing Dynasty to the mid-1990s, Fuzhou jasmine tea was renowned worldwide. At that time, Fuzhou had 100,000 acres of jasmine bases and over 1,000 related enterprises, with an annual output of 80,000 tons, accounting for more than 60% of the country's total, exported to over 40 countries.
城市化带来的衰落 | Decline Due to Urbanization
90年代中后期,福州城市化进程加速,茉莉花田从10万亩锐减至不足5000亩。同时行业乱象丛生:品质下降、添加香精、"花霸"垄断等问题相继出现。
In the mid-to-late 1990s, Fuzhou's urbanization accelerated, and jasmine fields plummeted from 100,000 acres to less than 5,000 acres. At the same time, industry chaos emerged: quality decline, flavor additives, and "flower tyrants" monopolies appeared one after another.
广西横县的崛起 | The Rise of Heng County in Guangxi
当福州茉莉花产业衰落时,广西横县抓住机遇,通过政策扶持和茉莉花节等活动,成功打造"中国茉莉之乡"品牌,成为新的产业中心。
When Fuzhou's jasmine industry declined, Heng County in Guangxi seized the opportunity. Through policy support and events like the Jasmine Festival, it successfully built the brand of "China's Jasmine Town" and became the new industry center.
复兴之路 | The Road to Revival
2008年后,政府开始重视茉莉花产业复兴。2011年福州获"国际茉莉花茶发源地"称号,2014年入选全球重要农业文化遗产。茉莉花田面积从5000亩恢复到1.8万亩。
After 2008, the government began to focus on reviving the jasmine industry. In 2011, Fuzhou was awarded the title of "International Origin of Jasmine Tea", and in 2014 it was included in the Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems. Jasmine fields recovered from 5,000 acres to 18,000 acres.
不确定的未来 | An Uncertain Future
尽管有政府支持,但失去的市场份额难以迅速恢复。许多茶厂已转向广西横县采购原料,福州本地花农面临销售困境。这朵曾经代表"中国味"的白色小花,能否重现昔日辉煌仍是未知数。
Despite government support, the lost market share is difficult to quickly recover. Many tea factories have turned to Heng County in Guangxi for raw materials, and local flower farmers in Fuzhou face sales difficulties. Whether this once "Chinese flavor" representing white flower can regain its former glory remains unknown.
