进出口服装贸易布料知识大全：弹性纤维与染色工艺详解
临近年底订单高峰期，许多外贸公司业务繁忙，更新速度有所放缓，敬请谅解。本期内容专业性强，建议先记忆背诵，在实际外贸工作中边实践边理解。
As year-end order peak season approaches, many foreign trade companies are busy with operations, resulting in slower updates. We appreciate your understanding. This content is highly specialized - we recommend memorizing first, then understanding through practical application in foreign trade work.
一、弹性纤维分类 (Elastic Fiber Classification)
1. SPANDEX弹性纤维 (Spandex elastic fiber)
2. LYCRA（莱卡）现改为ELASTANE氨纶 (LYCRA now changed to ELASTANE spandex)
二、色织布知识 (Yarn Dye Fabric Knowledge)
A. 织单色 (Solid Color Weaving) - 通常用来做配布以免有色差 (Usually used for matching fabrics to avoid color differences)
1) 排间FEEDER STRIPE：一般不超过1-3米4"循环 (Generally no more than 1-3m 4" cycle)
2) 自动化 AUTO STRIPE：超过1-3米4"循环 (Exceeds 1-3m 4" cycle)
3) 电脑间 ENGINERING STRIPE：大循环 (Large cycle)
B. 提花部分 (Jacquard Section)
1) 单提花 (Single Jacquard): 须两条纱先扭后织 (Requires twisting two yarns before weaving)
$44/Y 40/2: 170-180gm/m², 第二便宜 (Second cheapest)
2) 双提花 (Double Jacquard): 可两条纱并织 (Can weave two yarns together)
$40/Y 32/1: 210gm/m², 最便宜 (Cheapest)
3) 吊线 (Lappet): 可作格子布 (Can make plaid fabric)
$48/Y 20/1: 170-180gm/m², 最贵 (Most expensive)
三、常见面料成分 (Common Fabric Composition)
• 抓毛卫衣布 (Fleece fabric): 32s/1x2+10/1, 280gm/m²
• T/C=65%涤纶35%棉 (65% polyester 35% cotton)
• CVC=65%棉35%涤纶 (65% cotton 35% polyester)
四、专业纺织流程 (Professional Textile Process)
1. 棉花→纺纱→染纱→织布→煮布→染色→过水→开边→定型→验布→包装→出厂
(Cotton→Spinning→Yarn dyeing→Weaving→Scouring→Dyeing→Rinsing→Selvedge opening→Setting→Inspection→Packing→Shipping)
关键工艺说明 (Key Process Explanations):
• 煮布 (Scouring): 去除棉纱壳及杂质 (Removes cotton husks and impurities)
• 染色 (Dyeing): 分直接染和活性染 (Direct dye and reactive dye)
• 克色 (Black):
- 活性克 (Reactive black): 牢固度高但带青光 (High fastness but with blue tint)
- 硫化克 (Sulfur black): 带红光但色牢度低 (Red tint but lower fastness)
五、打色办注意事项 (Lab Dip Precautions)
• 确认客户对色光源 (Confirm color matching light source):
- 日本客户: 日光灯ARTIFICIAL DAYLIGHT
- 美国客户: TL84或ARTIFICIAL DAY LIGHT
• 重要提示: 印花布不能落软剂及太重树脂 (Important: Do not use softener or heavy resin for printed fabrics)
