H&M和Zara还能涨价多久?快时尚品牌高端化战略分析
作者|贺哲馨 编辑|董洁
By He Zhexin | Edited by Dong Jie
当你在搜索引擎输入"H&M"时,会发现不同地区官网的定位差异:港台官网将"最优价格"放在首位,英文官网同样强调"at best price",而大陆官网则将"时尚"和"品质"置于"合理价位"之前。
When searching for "H&M" online, you'll notice regional positioning differences: Hong Kong/Taiwan sites prioritize "best prices", while the mainland China site places "fashion" and "quality" before "reasonable pricing".
这种调整反映了快时尚品牌在中国市场的战略转型——试图摆脱"季节性折扣"标签,建立品质时尚形象。尽管国际时装周已逐渐失去风向标意义,但这一转型正在取得成效。
This adjustment reflects fast fashion brands' strategic shift in China - shedding the "seasonal discounts" image to establish quality fashion credentials, despite fashion weeks losing influence.
不打折策略的成效与挑战
The Impact and Challenges of No-Discount Strategies
H&M 2024年一季度财报显示,虽然销售额微跌2%,但营业利润大涨至20.8亿瑞典克朗(约14亿人民币),利润率4%远超预期的2.2%。减少折扣幅度的成本控制策略功不可没。
H&M's Q1 2024 results showed a 2% sales decline but operating profit surged to 2.08 billion SEK (~1.4 billion RMB), with 4% margin beating 2.2% expectations, thanks to discount reduction strategies.
相比之下,Zara的高端化转型更为成功。其全球化供应链布局(东欧和中美洲生产)带来更快上新速度(每周两次)和更低物流成本。母公司Inditex每年投入9亿欧元优化物流系统。
In contrast, Zara's premiumization proves more successful. Its globalized supply chain (Eastern Europe/Central America production) enables twice-weekly new arrivals and lower logistics costs, with parent Inditex investing €900 million annually in logistics.
中国市场的特殊挑战
Unique Challenges in China
快时尚品牌在中国面临本土平替品牌的强力竞争。SHEIN等平台承接了中国中小工厂产能(约1/3中国服饰供应商同时为SHEIN供货),形成对传统快时尚的直接冲击。
In China, fast fashion faces fierce competition from local alternatives. Platforms like SHEIN utilize Chinese SME factory capacity (~1/3 of apparel suppliers serve SHEIN), creating direct challenges.
优衣库近期向SHEIN索赔1.6亿日元,要求停止销售仿制品。快时尚巨头也开始复活低价子品牌应对竞争,如H&M重启Cheap Monday,Zara母公司重启Lefties奥莱线。
Uniqlo recently sued SHEIN for ¥160 million over knockoffs. Giants are also reviving budget sub-brands like H&M's Cheap Monday and Zara owner's Lefties outlet line.
未来战略方向
Future Strategic Directions
短期内,高端化仍将是中国市场主旋律:
• 更多设计师联名系列
• 开设风格化大店
• Zara姐妹品牌Massimo Dutti更换现代化Logo
Short-term, premiumization remains China's focus:
• More designer collaborations
• Flagship concept stores
• Zara sibling Massimo Dutti's logo modernization
但核心问题始终存在:当"越来越贵"成为消费者共识,这些转型策略还能持续创造亮眼业绩吗?
The fundamental question remains: As "getting pricier" becomes consumer consensus, can these strategies sustain impressive performance?