进出口服装贸易之布料知识（二）专业解析与SEO优化指南
前言/Introduction
接近年底公司的订单比较多，事务比较繁忙，所以更新就慢了点，大家多多理解。今天分享的这部分比较专业，大家尽量先记诵下来，以后从事外贸的工作中，边看边实践边理解。
As year-end approaches, our company has been handling numerous orders and busy schedules, resulting in slower updates. We appreciate your understanding. Today's content is more technical - we recommend memorizing these key points first, then applying them in actual foreign trade practice for better comprehension.
一、弹性纤维分类/Elastic Fiber Classification
1. 弹性丈根分: SPANDEX弹性纤维, LYCRA（莱卡）现改为ELASTANE氨纶
Elastic fibers are categorized as: SPANDEX elastic fiber, LYCRA (now renamed as ELASTANE polyurethane fiber)
二、色织布知识/Yarn Dye Fabric Knowledge
2. YARN DYE（色织）分为：
2. YARN DYE fabrics are classified into:
织单色(Solid Weaving) - 通常用来做配布以免有色差
Solid Weaving - Commonly used for matching fabrics to avoid color differences
1) 排间FEEDER STRIPE：一般不超过1-3米4"循环
1) FEEDER STRIPE: Generally doesn't exceed 1-3m with 4" pattern repeat
2) 自动化AUTO STRIPE：超过1-3米4"循环
2) AUTO STRIPE: Exceeds 1-3m with 4" pattern repeat
3) 电脑间ENGINERING STRIPE：大循环
3) ENGINEERING STRIPE: Large pattern repeat
提花部分/Jacquard Section
1) 单提花 - 须是两条纱先扭后织，但须提防起扭；$44/Y 40/2: 170-180gm/m2,价钱第二便宜
1) Single jacquard - Requires twisting two yarns before weaving (beware of twisting); $44/Y 40/2: 170-180gm/m2, second cheapest option
2) 双提花 - 可以将两条纱放入并织；$40/Y 32/1: 210gm/m2, 价钱最便宜
2) Double jacquard - Allows two yarns to be woven together; $40/Y 32/1: 210gm/m2, most economical option
3) 吊线可作格子布,布较双提花补布轻. $48/Y 20/1: 170-180gm/m2, 价钱最贵
3) Extra warp can create check patterns, lighter than double jacquard. $48/Y 20/1: 170-180gm/m2, most expensive option
三、常见面料规格/Common Fabric Specifications
3. 抓毛卫衣布，一般客人用32s/1x2+ 10/1,280gm/m2.
3. Brushed fleece fabric, commonly used specification: 32s/1x2+10/1, 280gm/m2
T/C= 65% POLYESTER 35% COTTON
CVC= 65% COTTON 35% POLYESTER
四、纺织流程/Textile Manufacturing Process
4. 纺织流程（比较专业，有机会的同学去布厂参观一下）：
4. Textile manufacturing process (professional content, we recommend visiting fabric mills when possible):
（1）棉花→纺纱→染纱→织布→煮布→染色→过水→开边→定型→验布→包装→出厂
(1) Cotton→Spinning→Yarn dyeing→Weaving→Scouring→Dyeing→Rinsing→Selvedge opening→Finishing→Inspection→Packing→Shipping
（2）煮布:煮去棉纱壳及杂质以免染色不稳定
(2) Scouring: Removes cotton husks and impurities to ensure stable dyeing
（3）染色:分直接染和活性染
(3) Dyeing: Includes direct dyeing and reactive dyeing
（4）克色（black）:活性克及硫化克
(4) Black dyeing: Reactive black and sulfur black
A. 活性克(牢固度高但带青光不够克)
A. Reactive black (higher color fastness but with bluish tint)
B. 硫化克(带红光克色美观但色牢度低)
B. Sulfur black (reddish black with better appearance but lower color fastness)
五、专业注意事项/Professional Notes
5. 打色办 lab dip:打色办时要问客人用什么灯对色,日本客户一般用日光灯ARTIFICIAL DAYLIGHT, 美国一般用TL84或ARTIFICIAL DAY LIGHT
5. Lab dip: Always confirm color matching light source with clients. Japanese clients typically use ARTIFICIAL DAYLIGHT, while American clients prefer TL84 or ARTIFICIAL DAY LIGHT
重要提示/Important Note: 如买布做印花布不能落软剂及太重树脂
Important Note: Avoid softeners and excessive resin when purchasing fabrics for printing
