BBC曝光大牌香水压榨童工:5岁儿童通宵采摘茉莉花仅赚10元
夏天到了,很多人出门都会喷香水。但在馥郁的香气背后,竟然隐藏着香水巨头对儿童的压榨与剥削。去年夏天,BBC调查香水供应链时发现,兰蔻(Lancôme)和雅芮(Aerin Beauty)使用的茉莉花涉嫌使用童工。
When summer arrives, many people wear perfume when going out. But behind the fragrant scents lies the shocking exploitation of children by major perfume brands. Last summer, a BBC investigation into perfume supply chains revealed that Lancôme and Aerin Beauty were using jasmine allegedly harvested by child laborers.
兰蔻"是我"(Idôle L'Intense)浓香水,以及雅诗兰黛集团旗下品牌雅芮(Aerin Beauty)的两款香水Ikat Jasmine(圣托里尼茉莉)和Limone Di Sicilia(西西里柠檬)中使用的茉莉花都来自埃及。
The jasmine used in Lancôme's Idôle L'Intense perfume and Estée Lauder's Aerin Beauty products (Ikat Jasmine and Limone Di Sicilia) all comes from Egypt.
01 摘一晚茉莉花仅赚10元
01 Earning Just 10 Yuan for a Night's Jasmine Harvest
赫巴 (Heba) 住在埃及茉莉花产区中心加尔比亚 (Gharbia) 地区的一个村庄里,她在凌晨3点叫醒家人采茉莉花,以免太阳的热量损伤花朵。
Heba lives in a village in Egypt's Gharbia region, the center of jasmine production. She wakes her family at 3am to harvest jasmine before the sun damages the delicate flowers.
赫巴说,她和她的四个孩子(年龄从 5 岁到 15 岁)一同采花。她在一个农场工作,和埃及大多数茉莉花采摘者一样,她也是所谓的"独立采摘者"。这意味着,她和孩子们采摘得越多,挣得越多。
Heba works with her four children (aged 5 to 15) as an "independent harvester" - meaning their earnings depend entirely on how much they can pick.
拍摄当晚,赫巴和孩子们摘了1.5公斤的茉莉花。土地所有者拿走三分之一的收入后,她只剩下约 1.5 美元(人民币10.89元)。而埃及的通胀率争处于历史最高水平,茉莉采摘者往往生活在贫困线以下,她们的劳动比任何时候都更廉价。
One harvest night, Heba's family picked 1.5kg of jasmine. After the landowner took one-third, they were left with just $1.50 (10.89 yuan) - devastatingly low wages as Egypt faces record inflation.
02 真正的"大师"
02 The Real "Masters"
独立调香师克里斯托夫·劳达米尔 (Christophe Laudamiel) 表示,掌握着所有权力的是在香料公司之上的美妆巨头——譬如欧莱雅和雅诗兰黛集团。他说:"香水公司感兴趣的是,用最便宜的精油成本,卖出尽可能高的价格。"
Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel revealed the real power lies with cosmetic giants like L'Oréal and Estée Lauder above the fragrance companies. "They want the cheapest possible essence to sell at the highest possible price," he said.
03 审查系统形同虚设
03 Auditing Systems as Mere Facades
香水公司描绘了一幅完美的采购画面,但律师萨拉·达杜什指出:"审计人员只审计他们拿钱审计的东西",而这可能不包括支付给劳动力的价格,这才是童工的"主要根源"。
While perfume companies portray ethical sourcing, lawyer Sarah Dadush notes auditors only check what they're paid to check - often excluding labor costs, the root cause of child labor.
04 童工现象会好吗?
04 Will Child Labor Improve?
欧莱雅表示正在"确保向农民支付足够的工资",雅诗兰黛称已联系供应商调查。但当赫巴听到香水国际售价时,她震惊了:"这里的劳动力一文不值...我希望使用者能看到这些孩子的痛苦。"
L'Oréal claims to be "ensuring adequate wages" while Estée Lauder says it's investigating. But when Heba learned international perfume prices, she was shocked: "Our labor is worthless... I hope users see these children's suffering."
律师达杜什强调:"这不应该由消费者解决。我们需要法律...需要企业问责制。"
Lawyer Dadush stresses: "This shouldn't fall on consumers. We need laws... corporate accountability."