进出口服装贸易布料知识大全(二) - 弹性纤维与色织工艺详解
前言：接近年底公司的订单比较多，事务比较繁忙，所以更新就慢了点，大家多多理解。今天分享的这部分比较专业，大家尽量先记诵下来，以后从事外贸的工作中，边看边实践边理解。
Foreword: As year-end approaches, our company has many orders and busy schedules, so updates have been slower. We appreciate your understanding. Today's content is quite specialized - we recommend memorizing these points first, then applying them in practical foreign trade work for better understanding.
1. 弹性纤维分类
1. Elastic Fiber Classification
弹性丈根分: SPANDEX弹性纤维, LYCRA（莱卡）现改为ELASTANE氨纶
Elastic fibers are classified as: SPANDEX elastic fiber, LYCRA (now changed to ELASTANE spandex)
2. 色织(YARN DYE)工艺
2. Yarn Dye Techniques
一、织单色(通常用来做配布以免有色差)
A. Solid Color Weaving (commonly used for matching fabrics to avoid color differences)
1) 排间FEEDER STRIPE：一般不超过1-3米4"循环
1) Feeder Stripe: Usually no more than 1-3m 4" cycle
2) 自动化 AUTO STRIPE：超过1-3米4"循环
2) Auto Stripe: Exceeds 1-3m 4" cycle
3) 电脑间 ENGINERING STRIPE：大循环
3) Engineering Stripe: Large cycle
二、提花部分
B. Jacquard Section
1) 单提花: 须是两条纱先扭后织，但须提防起扭；$44/Y 40/2: 170-180gm/m2,价钱第二便宜
1) Single Jacquard: Requires twisting two yarns before weaving; $44/Y 40/2: 170-180gm/m2, second cheapest
2) 双提花: 可以将两条纱放入并织；$40/Y 32/1: 210gm/m2, 价钱最便宜
2) Double Jacquard: Two yarns can be woven together; $40/Y 32/1: 210gm/m2, cheapest
3) 吊线: 可作格子布,布较双提花补布轻. $48/Y 20/1: 170-180gm/m2, 价钱最贵
3) Floating Thread: Suitable for checkered fabric, lighter than double jacquard. $48/Y 20/1: 170-180gm/m2, most expensive
3. 常见面料规格
3. Common Fabric Specifications
抓毛卫衣布: 一般客人用32s/1x2+ 10/1,280gm/m2
Brushed Fleece: Commonly used 32s/1x2+ 10/1,280gm/m2
T/C= 65% POLYESTER 35% COTTON
CVC= 65% COTTON 35% POLYESTER
4. 纺织流程
4. Textile Production Process
（比较专业，有机会的同学去布厂参观一下）
(Professional content, recommended to visit fabric mills when possible)
（1）棉花→纺纱→染纱→织布→煮布→染色→过水→开边→定型→验布→包装→出厂
(1) Cotton→Spinning→Yarn Dyeing→Weaving→Scouring→Dyeing→Rinsing→Selvedge Opening→Setting→Inspection→Packaging→Shipping
（2）煮布: 煮去棉纱壳及杂质以免染色不稳定
(2) Scouring: Removes cotton husks and impurities to ensure stable dyeing
（3）染色: 分直接染和活性染
(3) Dyeing: Divided into direct dyeing and reactive dyeing
（4）克色(black): 活性克及硫化克
(4) Black Dyeing: Reactive black and sulfur black
A. 活性克(牢固度高但带青光不够克)
A. Reactive Black (high fastness but with bluish tint)
B. 硫化克(带红光克色美观但色牢度低)
B. Sulfur Black (reddish tint, beautiful but low color fastness)
5. 打色办注意事项
5. Lab Dip Considerations
打色办时要问客人用什么灯对色: 日本客户一般用日光灯ARTIFICIAL DAYLIGHT, 美国一般用TL84或ARTIFICIAL DAY LIGHT
When preparing lab dips, ask clients about light sources: Japanese clients usually use Artificial Daylight, American clients typically use TL84 or Artificial Daylight
注意: 如买布做印花布不能落软剂及太重树脂
Note: When purchasing fabric for printing, avoid using softeners or heavy resin treatments
