从广州茶市到全球市场:六堡茶的国际贸易之路
上世纪40年代,广州的德昌行等私人茶庄就开始经销六堡茶。新中国成立后,尽管实行公私合营政策,六堡茶依然是这些茶庄的重要销售产品。
In the 1940s, private tea houses like Dechang Hang in Guangzhou began selling Liubao tea. After the founding of New China, despite the implementation of the public-private partnership policy, Liubao tea remained an important product in these tea houses.
当时广州的茶叶贸易主要集中在芳村茶叶市场。据梧州市航运局的黄贤富回忆:"梧州运到广州的六堡茶,刚开始是在广州市内的茶叶店铺卖,后来都运去芳村的茶叶商铺一条街销售了。"
The tea trade in Guangzhou was mainly concentrated in the Fangcun Tea Market. According to Huang Xianfu from Wuzhou Shipping Bureau: "Liubao tea shipped from Wuzhou to Guangzhou was initially sold in tea shops in downtown Guangzhou, and later all transported to the tea shop street in Fangcun."
芳村茶叶市场有着悠久历史,早在1870年代就已被英国摄影师约翰·汤姆森记录在《镜头前的旧中国》一书中。到上世纪80年代,这里已发展成为占地超过10万平方米的国家级茶叶专业市场。
The Fangcun Tea Market has a long history, documented as early as the 1870s by British photographer John Thomson in his book "China Through the Lens of John Thomson". By the 1980s, it had developed into a national-level professional tea market covering over 100,000 square meters.
有趣的是,当时许多六堡茶被拼配进普洱茶中出售。茶叶收藏家钟珀城解释:"因为六堡茶所需要的陈化时间短,而且口感上与熟普比较接近。"
Interestingly, much Liubao tea was blended into Pu'er tea for sale at that time. Tea collector Zhong Pochen explained: "Because Liubao tea requires shorter aging time and its taste is relatively close to ripe Pu'er."
新中国成立后,梧州的六堡茶通过广州出口到香港、澳门,并进一步销往海外。黄贤富回忆:"航运局安排有专门的船队运货到港澳地区,梧州出口的六堡茶就由这些船队专门负责运输。"
After the founding of New China, Wuzhou's Liubao tea was exported to Hong Kong and Macau through Guangzhou, and then further sold overseas. Huang Xianfu recalled: "The shipping bureau arranged special fleets to transport goods to Hong Kong and Macau, and Liubao tea exported from Wuzhou was specifically transported by these fleets."
香港茶商陈克伦表示:"当时,香港的茶商进口梧州的六堡茶后,把其中一部分蒸压成茶饼后卖去南洋,另外一部分就卖给香港当地的茶楼。"
Hong Kong tea merchant Chen Kelun said: "At that time, after Hong Kong tea merchants imported Liubao tea from Wuzhou, they steamed and pressed some into tea cakes for sale to Nanyang (Southeast Asia), while the other part was sold to local tea houses in Hong Kong."
如今,广州芳村茶叶市场依然是全国最大的茶叶专业批发市场,而六堡茶的国际贸易历史,则成为茶人们津津乐道的故事。
Today, Guangzhou's Fangcun Tea Market remains the largest professional tea wholesale market in China, while the international trade history of Liubao tea has become stories that tea lovers enjoy telling.